How To Use
READYWARE

Go to Settings → Preferences → Edit Mode and toggle it on to unlock. Toggle it off to lock. You can also tap the lock icon in the top toolbar of any remote screen.

READYWARE has three layers, all running on the same canvas:

• The Desktop — your home base. One per profile, always there. Pin your most-used buttons here for one-tap access from anywhere.
• Folders — usually rooms (Living Room, Bedroom, Garage, Office). Group related remotes inside.
• Remotes — the individual devices (TV, AC, fireplace, gate, lights). Each one a fully-designed surface.

All three are canvases. They look the same in Edit Mode and follow the same rules — drag-and-drop, custom wallpapers, custom buttons, custom everything. Learn one, you know all three.

Picture it: your Desktop has folders for Living Room, Bedroom, and Garage. Living Room contains a TV remote, an A/V receiver, a Lights remote, and a Fireplace remote. Tap any of them to use it. Or pin commonly-used buttons (Volume, Power, All Off) directly to your Desktop or to the Living Room folder so they're available without opening any specific remote.

In Edit Mode, tap the + button or long-press on any canvas. Pick one of the starter layouts (TV, A/V receiver, cable box, streaming stick, light switch, gate, blinds, etc.) for a quick head start, or pick Blank if you want full creative control. Either way, the remote exists in seconds.

Same flow for adding a Folder. Tap +, give it a name, drop in your remotes. Most people organize by room, but you can use folders however you like — by activity (Movie Night, Bedtime, Workout), by zone (Upstairs, Downstairs, Outside), or anything else that fits your home.

Every visual element is editable. There's no template you're locked into.

• Wallpaper — solid color, photo, animated GIF, or live video stream (covered in the next section). If video isn't your thing, a clean color background works just as well.
• Buttons — drag anywhere on the canvas. Resize each one independently.
• Shape — rectangle, rounded corner, circle, oval, custom shapes.
• Color & icon — set icon color, text color, background color, border on/off. Pick from the built-in icon library or upload your own.
• Text — label size, weight, color, position above or below the icon.

Make a remote that looks like your actual A/V rack, not a generic grid of buttons.

Here's a hidden trick most users don't discover on their own: your wallpaper size controls how big the buttons and icons appear on screen — without changing the remote's layout at all.

• Smaller wallpaper image → bigger icons on screen
• Larger wallpaper image → smaller icons on screen

If you're using the default demo profile on a smaller tablet (like an 8") and the icons feel a bit small, resize the wallpaper down a step — same image, lower resolution — and the buttons get proportionally bigger. Going the other way works too: huge TV with chunky icons? Use a larger wallpaper.

Keep the same aspect ratio (16:10 stays 16:10, 16:9 stays 16:9) so you don't get black bars on the sides. Photopea, Paint.NET, GIMP, or any photo editor handles the resize in seconds.

While you're in there — compress it before you import it. Running a wallpaper through a free compressor takes about ten seconds and typically cuts 50–75% off the file with no change to its pixel dimensions: transparency stays transparent and animated GIFs keep every frame. Wallpapers are stored inside your remote and profile files, so this is what keeps saving, loading, and sharing quick. See the Style Guide for which tool to use for PNG, GIF, and JPG ↗

→ Full size reference chart with ready-made sizes for tablets, TVs, and phones

Big buttons. High-contrast colors. Whatever-size-feels-right text. The "let me find my glasses" moment doesn't have to be a moment — you can size Power and Volume to be easy to hit without looking, and shrink the rarely-used ones to keep the layout clean. The canvas adapts to you, not the other way around.

This is the part most people miss: the Desktop and Folders can have buttons too. Pin All Lights Off, Doorbell Mute, or Goodnight to your top-level Desktop and those actions are always one tap away — no matter which remote you're using or which folder you're in.

Don't have the original remote? Tap any button, run the Smart IR Wizard, pick the brand and model from the 700,000+ signal database, and the codes are programmed. Covered in detail in Smart IR — Auto-Program Buttons below.

Layouts and signals save to the open .irc file format. Back up your entire home setup to a single file. Restore everything on a new phone or tablet in seconds. Switch from a BroadLink to a USB blaster — same buttons, same layouts, same database. You don't lose your work because you switched hardware or upgraded your phone.

Settings → Preferences → Overlay Timeout controls how long before buttons fade out automatically — just like a TV volume bar. Set it to Always On to keep buttons visible permanently, or choose a timer from 3 seconds to 60 seconds. Tap anywhere on the canvas to wake buttons back up instantly.

The system overlay above is Android-only — Apple doesn't allow apps to draw over other apps. But iPad does it for you. With Slide Over (iPadOS 26.1 or later), READYWARE floats in a small window on top of every other app — your real canvas, buttons, and wallpaper over Netflix, Ring, Nest, SmartThings, or any dashboard.

How to use it:

① Settings → Multitasking & Gestures → choose Windowed Apps.
② Open READYWARE, swipe down to reveal the window controls, tap and hold them → Enter Slide Over.
③ Open whatever you're watching. READYWARE stays floating on top.
④ Flick it off the side to tuck it away — a small handle stays at the edge. Swipe in from that edge to bring it right back.
⑤ Drag a corner to resize it.

One app can be in Slide Over at a time. Everything works normally in there — IR, RF, macros, speed buttons, live state.

Apple TV: turn on AirPlay screen mirroring and your whole READYWARE canvas appears on the TV — tap buttons on your device, signals fire as normal. Works today, nothing to set up in the app.

iPhone: there's no Slide Over on iPhone, so use READYWARE full-screen and switch apps, or mirror to an Apple TV. (Quick-access controls that work from anywhere are on our roadmap.)

An IR or RF transmitter — that's it. READYWARE works with WiFi blasters (BroadLink RM4 Mini for IR, RM4 Pro for IR + RF), USB-C IR dongles (Tiqiaa, ElkSmart, Ocrustar, ZaZaRemote, etc.), the built-in IR blaster on phones that have one, the iTach WiFi for Global Caché users, or Bluetooth IR bridges (experimental — see note below). One app, every transmitter.

For most people, the easiest path is a BroadLink RM4 Mini (IR only) or RM4 Pro (IR + RF) on the same WiFi as your phone — they're cheap, reliable, and learn new signals from any remote. Set up once in Settings → Device Setup. BroadLink makes the hardware, READYWARE makes it tick.

Note on USB IR blasters: The inexpensive USB-C IR dongles (Tiqiaa Tview, ZaZaRemote, Ocrustar EKX4S-T, ElkSmart units, and similar — starting around $7) work great for transmitting IR — point your phone at the TV and fire any signal. But they don't learn signals from your existing remotes. Use a BroadLink RM4 to learn, then play those learned codes through any blaster you like. Or skip learning entirely and use Smart IR with the 700,000+ code database.

Note on Bluetooth IR blasters: READYWARE includes a Bluetooth LE scanner that pairs cleanly with BLE IR dongles like the Tiqiaa IR2023 series (the same family that ships with ZaZa Remote on Android and Uni TV Remote on iOS). However, some manufacturers encrypt the IR transmission so only their official app can fire signals. We've documented the protocol layer fully — pairing works — but IR send through a third-party app like READYWARE is currently not supported on encrypted dongles. For reliable IR control, a WiFi blaster (BroadLink RM4) or a direct USB-C IR dongle is the proven path. If a future BLE blaster ships with an open protocol, READYWARE is ready for it.

🛠️ Build your own: Tired of locked-down dongles? You can build your own WiFi IR blaster for about $8 using an ESP32-C3 SuperMini, an IR LED, and a 3D-printed case. The firmware emulates the BroadLink protocol so READYWARE finds it automatically — zero app changes. Smaller than a BroadLink RM Mini, fully open source, no DRM, no vendor lock-in. Full build guide →

📡 Tasmota WiFi IR (emit + learn): Open WiFi IR blasters running Tasmota — the Athom Tasmota IR Controller (~$15) or any ESP8266/ESP32 flashed with Tasmota — work as a native transmitter. Settings → Device Setup → Tasmota → enter the IP → Test → Save. Local HTTP, no cloud or DRM. Unlike iTach, Tasmota learns as well as emits. IR only (no RF). ESPHome units can be reflashed to Tasmota for the same one-tap control.

Tip when shopping: a few cheaper IR adapters use the phone's headphone jack rather than the USB-C port — those older audio-driven designs follow a different protocol and work best with whatever app the manufacturer ships. For READYWARE, look for a dongle that plugs into the USB-C port and you're set.

🍎 iPhone / iPad note: The first time you add a WiFi device (BroadLink, iTach, etc.), iOS pops up asking "Allow READYWARE to find devices on your local network?" — tap Allow. Most users see this dialog once, tap Allow, and never think about it again — discovery is instant and you're firing IR/RF in seconds. If you accidentally tapped Don't Allow, turn it back on in Settings → Privacy & Security → Local Network → READYWARE. Rare iOS edge case: if discovery still doesn't work after granting permission, see iPhone troubleshooting in the FAQ.

1 · The real remote's buttons (the source). Where the codes actually live. You tag them so speed buttons can find them. They keep working normally.

2 · The speed button (on your room). Has no code of its own — it asks the armed remote for a role, e.g. "give me volume up."

3 · The selector (the switch). Tap it to arm a remote. Tap it again to open that remote.

Heads up: the Other tab has two speed entries and they are not the same — Speed Button (the one that asks for a role) and Speed Selector (the switch that arms a remote). Easy to miss.

Real remote's button → Style tab → Speed Button Role  (the tag)

Room's speed button → Other tab → Speed Button → role  (the ask)

Selector button → Other tab → Speed Selector → remote  (the switch)

Selector's color → Style tab → 2-State Toggle → ON look

Simple rule: Style = what a button IS. Other = what a button DOES.

Dim buttons are normal. Before you tap a selector, nothing is armed — speed buttons are dim and do nothing. A dim button after arming means that remote has no button tagged with that role: tag it, and it lights up. Only that one button dims; the rest keep working.

Use as many as you like. 5 buttons or 20, different in every room — there's no limit. Roles are just names you type, not a fixed list: the common ones are one-tap picks, but hdmi_1…hdmi_5, fan_speed, or subwoofer work exactly the same. Give the matching button on each remote the same name and you're done.

Everything comes along. IR, RF (fans, ACs), macros, and web commands all work, fired from whichever blaster that remote uses.

Add a second selector. With only one, you can arm it but never switch away. Two or more trade off cleanly.

All your tablets. Tags and selectors live in your remotes and folders — build it once, export your profile, load it everywhere.

If a device never changes — your A/V receiver's HDMI 1-5, say — you don't need Speed Buttons at all. Give the room button a Macro with one IR / RF step, choose Browse from another remote, pick the A/V remote, and select HDMI 1. READYWARE copies that code over for you — no re-learning, no exporting, nothing to move. Repeat for the rest.

Rule of thumb: fixed device → borrow the code (always live). Switching devices → Speed Buttons (follow whatever's armed). Mix both on one room: inputs always hot, speed buttons following the armed device.

There are two parts:

1. Add the device once — Settings → Device Setup → Smart Home tab → Add. Paste the URL + token (or whatever each integration needs), tap Test, Save. You're done with setup.
2. Assign to a button — long-press any button → Other tab → pick the action type that matches (HTTP GET/POST/PUT for Hue/Home Assistant/Generic, MQTT for brokers, SwitchBot for SwitchBot). Fill in endpoint or command, save.

Credentials are stored locally on your phone or tablet only — never sent anywhere except directly to the device or API you configured.

Direct control of Hue lights, scenes, and rooms over your local network. No Hue cloud account needed once paired — fires instantly, works offline. Bulbs, light strips, Hue Play bars, motion sensors as triggers, dynamic scenes, color and brightness — all controllable from READYWARE buttons.

The easiest path is the official Hue developer page: developers.meethue.com/develop/get-started-2. Follow the "Get Started" guide — press the link button on your physical Hue Bridge, then make the API call to receive your application key. Save both the Bridge IP (e.g. 192.168.1.45) and the app key (a long random string).

Settings → Device Setup → Smart Home → Add → pick Philips Hue. Name it (e.g. "Living Room Hue"), paste http://192.168.1.45 as Base URL, paste the app key as the auth field. Tap Test — you should see a 200 response. Save.

Long-press a button → Other tab → HTTP PUT. URL: http://192.168.1.45/api/<app-key>/lights/1/state (replace 1 with your light ID). Body: {"on":true,"bri":100} for full brightness, or {"on":false} for off. The Hue API documentation lists every available endpoint for groups, scenes, and individual lights.

Full Home Assistant integration. If a device works in HA, it works in READYWARE — every domain HA supports (light, switch, climate, cover, media_player, fan, scene, automation, script, input_boolean, all of it). Bridge Zigbee, Z-Wave, Matter, and a hundred custom integrations through HA into READYWARE.

In Home Assistant: click your username (bottom-left) → scroll to Long-Lived Access Tokens at the bottom → Create Token. Name it "READYWARE", copy the token immediately (HA only shows it once). If you lose it, just create a new one.

Settings → Device Setup → Smart Home → Add → pick Home Assistant. Name it, paste your HA URL (e.g. http://homeassistant.local:8123 or http://192.168.1.50:8123), paste the long-lived token. Tap Test — should connect. Save.

Long-press a button → Other tab → HTTP POST. URL: http://homeassistant.local:8123/api/services/<domain>/<service>. Body: {"entity_id":"light.living_room"}. Example to turn on a light: URL .../api/services/light/turn_on, body {"entity_id":"light.kitchen","brightness":200}. For scenes: .../api/services/scene/turn_on, body {"entity_id":"scene.movie_time"}.

The auth token is added automatically as a Bearer header — you don't have to enter it again in the button.

Have Shelly devices? You can run them through Home Assistant, but Shelly also works directly over local HTTP with no hub at all — often simpler. See the Shelly command reference below.

Control your Kasa and Tapo smart plugs, switches, and bulbs from any button — on, off, dim, and scenes. Kasa speaks TP-Link's own local protocol rather than plain HTTP, so READYWARE reaches it through Home Assistant, which talks to every Kasa and Tapo generation natively — old hardware and new.

Add your Kasa/Tapo devices in the Kasa app first (to get them on WiFi), then add them to Home Assistant — HA auto-discovers most TP-Link devices. In READYWARE: Settings → Device Setup → Smart Home → Add → Home Assistant, paste your HA URL (e.g. http://homeassistant.local:8123) and a Long-Lived Access Token from your HA profile.

Long-press a button → Other tab → HTTP POST, then call the Home Assistant service for your device. For a plug: URL http://<ha>:8123/api/services/switch/turn_on (or turn_off), body {"entity_id":"switch.living_room_plug"}, with your token as the auth. Lights, dimmers, and scenes work the same way through their HA services. Once it's in Home Assistant, every Kasa and Tapo generation controls identically — and the same button can sit in a macro alongside your IR.

The flexible catch-all. Anything with an HTTP API — Shelly relays, WLED LED strips, Nanoleaf panels, Bond Bridge (ceiling fans, fireplaces, shades), Tasmota and ESP32 / ESPHome devices, Hubitat (Maker API), Sonos via node-sonos-http-api, Pi-hole controls, routers, NAS systems, custom microservices, webhooks, IFTTT triggers, Zapier hooks — all work. If you can hit it with curl, READYWARE can hit it from a button.

WiFi light switches & dimmers: Shelly works directly over local HTTP — no hub, no cloud account. On/off relays use relay / Switch, while dimmers use light / Light (a dimmer is not a switch — that mismatch is the #1 cause of a 404). See the full Shelly command reference just below for every generation. Tuya / Smart Life switches work once flashed with Tasmota or ESPHome; and Kasa / Tapo switches connect through Home Assistant (see the Kasa section above).

And just about everything else, via Home Assistant: if a device isn't directly HTTP — Kasa/Tapo, Z-Wave, Zigbee (incl. Zigbee2MQTT), Sonos, Nest / Ecobee thermostats, smart locks, garage doors, blinds — Home Assistant bridges it, so virtually any of the thousands of devices HA supports can drive a READYWARE button. LIFX and Govee also work through their cloud HTTP APIs, and hubs like Homey, Hubitat, Node-RED, openHAB, and Domoticz work via webhook or REST.

Settings → Device Setup → Smart Home → Add → pick Generic HTTP. Name it, paste the base URL of the service, optionally add an API key / bearer token. Saved devices appear in the Smart Home list for easy reuse across many buttons.

Long-press a button → Other tab → pick HTTP GET, HTTP POST, or HTTP PUT depending on what the API expects. Paste the full URL, the body (for POST/PUT), and the auth token if needed. For webhooks like IFTTT or Zapier, HTTP GET with the webhook URL is usually all you need.

Custom headers: the auth field defaults to sending as Authorization: Bearer <token>. If your API needs a different header (like X-Api-Key or hass-token), you can set the Custom Header Key field.

Publish to an MQTT broker on your local network. Used widely with Home Assistant + Mosquitto, ESPHome devices, Zigbee2MQTT, Tasmota firmware on Sonoff devices, and many custom DIY automation setups. Lets one button trigger anything subscribed to a topic — multiple devices and automations can react to the same message.

You'll need an MQTT broker on your local network. The most common combo is Mosquitto (open-source broker) running on a Raspberry Pi or alongside Home Assistant. Once your broker is running, MQTT in READYWARE has no separate "device" entry to add — just use it directly on a button.

Long-press a button → Other tab → MQTT Publish. Three fields:

• Broker: mqtt://192.168.1.100:1883
• Topic: home/living_room/tv/power (anything you've configured a device or HA automation to listen on)
• Payload: {"state": "ON"} or just ON — whatever the listener expects

Best paired with Home Assistant — you can publish from READYWARE and have HA's MQTT integration trigger any automation in response.

Using Shelly? Gen2+ Shelly devices can be driven over MQTT, but the simplest path is plain local HTTP — no broker needed. See the Shelly command reference above.

SwitchBot's API can only fire commands that already exist in your SwitchBot app. It cannot learn new IR codes. So you must set up your remotes in the SwitchBot app first, then assign them to READYWARE buttons.

Use SwitchBot's "Smart Matching" or "Select Manually" mode whenever possible — these give you a full virtual remote with preset commands (Power On, Volume +, Channel +, etc.) that READYWARE can pick from a dropdown. The "Others" / DIY mode works too, but you'll have to type the exact button names manually.

Open the SwitchBot app, pair your Hub, and add one or more IR remotes (TVs, ACs, fans, lights, etc.). Test that each remote works from inside the SwitchBot app first. If a button doesn't work in SwitchBot, it won't work in READYWARE either — fix it in the SwitchBot app first.

In the SwitchBot app: Profile → Preferences → tap "App Version" 10 times → Developer Options → Get Token. Copy both the Open Token and the Secret.

In READYWARE: Settings → Device Setup → Smart Home tab → Add → SwitchBot. Paste the Open Token and Secret, give the account a name (e.g. "My SwitchBot"), tap Test. If it connects, tap Save Device.

Once saved, tap the refresh icon next to your SwitchBot account in the device list. READYWARE pulls in all your virtual remotes and scenes and caches them locally — no further API hits until you refresh again.

In Edit Mode, long-press any button → Other tab → pick SwitchBot from the action list. Choose:

• Account — which SwitchBot account this button uses
• Target — Virtual Remote or Scene
• Remote / Scene — which one from your SwitchBot setup
• Command — pick from the preset list (Power, Volume +, etc.) OR tap "+ Custom Name" and type a button name from your SwitchBot app exactly as it appears (case-sensitive)

Tap Test Now before saving — it fires the command immediately so you can verify before committing.

If you used SwitchBot's "Others" / DIY mode to learn IR codes, the API requires the button name exactly as labeled in the SwitchBot app, case-sensitive. SwitchBot does not expose these names through their API, so you must type them yourself. Common defaults are Power, Volume Up, On, Off. If unsure, switch to Smart Matching or Select Manually mode — those give clean preset commands.

SwitchBot integration is for firing commands SwitchBot already knows. READYWARE cannot teach the SwitchBot hub new IR codes through the API — that has to be done in the SwitchBot app. For free-form IR learning, use READYWARE's own learning workflow with BroadLink, USB IR, onboard IR, or iTach.

Fire any Homey Flow from a READYWARE button. Homey has webhooks built in, so there's no extra app to install — you point a Generic HTTP button at a Homey webhook and your Flow runs. Use the local URL and nothing touches the cloud: button tap → local request on your WiFi → Homey runs the Flow. Sub-second.

In the Homey app, create a Flow. For the When card choose Logic → "Webhook event […] has been received." Type a unique event name, e.g. movie_night. Add your action cards (lights, AC, a scene, whatever) and save. Tip: hover the ⓘ on the webhook card to copy the ready-made URL.

Local — lowest latency, no cloud (phone on the same WiFi as Homey): http://<homey-ip>/webhook?event=movie_night. Older 2016–2019 Homey models use http://<homey-ip>/api/manager/logic/webhook/movie_night; self-hosted Homey listens on port 4859.

Cloud — works from anywhere: https://webhook.homey.app/<homey-id>/movie_night. Find your Homey ID in More ⋯ → Settings → General.

Long-press a button → Other tab → HTTP GET → paste the URL → Save. No token needed — the event name is the key. Tap to test; your Flow fires.

Use the local IP URL so the whole chain stays on your LAN — no cloud round-trip anywhere. Set a DHCP reservation for Homey so its IP never changes.

Trigger Hubitat over your local network using its Maker API — control any device or run any rule/scene from a READYWARE button, fully local.

In Hubitat: Apps → Add Built-In App → Maker API. Select the devices to expose and enable local access. Maker API then lists a local URL for every command, e.g. http://<hubitat-ip>/apps/api/<appID>/devices/<deviceID>/on?access_token=<token>.

Long-press a button → Other tab → HTTP GET → paste the Maker API URL (including its access_token) → Save → test. Swap /on for /off, /setLevel/50, etc., per the endpoint list Maker API shows you.

Assign your Hubitat a static IP — the Maker API URLs contain its address.

Make a READYWARE button hit a Node-RED flow. Drop an http in node and any flow becomes a webhook endpoint — orchestrate IR, lights, notifications, other services, anything Node-RED can reach.

In Node-RED, add an http in node, set method GET and a path like /readyware/movienight. Wire it to your logic and to an http response node (so it returns 200). Deploy. Your endpoint is http://<node-red-ip>:1880/readyware/movienight (1880 is the default port; if you run Node-RED as a Home Assistant add-on the port/path may differ).

Long-press a button → Other tab → HTTP GET → paste the endpoint → Save → test.

Because READYWARE's Generic HTTP and MQTT Publish actions are open-ended, a button can trigger almost any hub or device that accepts an HTTP request or an MQTT message. A few popular ones and how they're reached:

• openHAB — REST API. HTTP POST a command to http://<ip>:8080/rest/items/<item>.
• Domoticz — JSON API. HTTP GET http://<ip>:8080/json.htm?type=command&param=switchlight&idx=<id>&switchcmd=On.
• Bond Bridge — local REST API for RF ceiling fans, fireplaces, and shades. HTTP PUT to http://<bond-ip>/v2/devices/<id>/actions/<action> with the BOND-Token header.
• Tasmota (Sonoff/ESP) — HTTP GET http://<ip>/cm?cmnd=Power%20On.
• WLED — JSON API. HTTP POST {"on":true} to http://<ip>/json/state.
• n8n — add a Webhook trigger node; paste its URL into an HTTP GET/POST button.
• IFTTT / Zapier / Make — paste the webhook/trigger URL.

If you can hit it with curl, READYWARE can fire it from a button. And if it speaks MQTT, use the MQTT Publish action instead of HTTP.

The real power of READYWARE smart home isn't any single integration — it's combining them. A single "Movie Night" macro button can:

1. Turn the TV on (BroadLink IR)
2. Switch HDMI input (also IR)
3. Dim Hue lights to 15% (Hue HTTP PUT)
4. Turn off the bedroom AC (SwitchBot)
5. Trigger a "movie mode" automation (Home Assistant POST or MQTT publish)
6. Switch the live wallpaper to your theater photo
7. Launch Netflix

All in one tap. That's the point — Electronic Personification. Build macros in Edit Mode → long-press a button → Macro tab → add steps in any order, with any delay between them.

Only when you open a remote, folder, or desktop — one quick check per device, then it's quiet. No background polling. To re-check on demand, add a Refresh Live State (↻) button (Button Editor → Other → Refresh Live State), or add a Refresh step to a macro so a control button updates its reading right after it acts.

Make the readout a big transparent button showing the value, and place normal control buttons beside or under it. Buttons can overlap freely, so you can layer the reading over your own image. Everything is opt-in — old buttons, remotes, folders, and profiles are unchanged.

Cloud thermostats (Nest, ecobee): these don't have a local status URL yet — for now, read them through Home Assistant (point Live State at your HA URL with your HA token).

For an On/Off feedback button, the appearance is the button's own ON look and OFF look — the colors, icon, shape, and label you choose (no fixed green/gray). Turn on 2-State Toggle in the same Style tab, design the "on" look and the "off" look once, and the real device flips between them. It's the same two-look system as a manual toggle button — but driven by the device instead of a press. (No toggle looks set = the button reads state without changing appearance.)

Status URL = your device's address + status page (put your device's IP here). Value Path = the field name in the reply to read. Type = On/Off, Number, or Text.

Shelly Gen1 — URL http://YOUR-IP/light/0 or /relay/0 · Value ison · On/Off

Shelly Gen2/Gen3 — URL http://YOUR-IP/rpc/Switch.GetStatus?id=0 · Value output (On/Off) or apower (watts, Number) · Login Digest (admin) if a password is set

Tasmota — URL http://YOUR-IP/cm?cmnd=Power · Value POWER · On/Off · "On" value ON

Home Assistant — URL http://YOUR-IP:8123/api/states/ENTITY_ID · Login Token · Value state or attributes.current_temperature (Number)

Finding the value name: open the Status URL in a browser. You'll see something like {"ison":true,"brightness":100} — the words before each : are the value names. Use the one you want.

In Edit Mode, tap the + button on the desktop → Folder. Name it, pick an icon and color. Drag remotes into it by long-pressing them and selecting Move to Folder.

Each folder supports its own live wallpaper, independent of the desktop wallpaper. Open the folder in Edit Mode and set a video stream or image. When you open that folder, its wallpaper loads automatically.

Folders support buttons too — not just remotes. Add a macro button to a folder that sets the room's lights, fires IR commands, and changes the wallpaper all in one tap.

READYWARE is built to feel right on every screen size, including the largest one in the room. There are three ways to get it on your TV, and you can use any of them — or all of them — depending on your setup.

📺 Install the app directly. READYWARE runs natively on Android TV and Google TV (Chromecast with Google TV, Sony Bravia, Hisense, Sharp, Philips), Amazon Fire TV / Fire Stick (via the Amazon Appstore), and NVIDIA Shield. Same app, same layouts, same Smart IR database — sized for the screen.

🌐 Use any browser. If your TV runs Samsung Tizen, LG webOS, Roku, or you have an Apple TV with a Mac mini routed in, just open the Web Viewer in any browser. Same experience, no install. Pair the device's keyboard, mouse, or pointer for full point-and-click.

📱 Cast from your phone. Chromecast or screen-mirror your phone's READYWARE canvas to the TV. The fastest path if you'd rather not install anything new.

However it gets there, the experience is the same. Add a pointer device — an air mouse, a gyroscopic clicker, or your phone or tablet acting as a wireless pointer — and you're navigating graphical buttons floating over your live wallpaper from across the room. One pointer, one screen, every device in the room — instead of a pile of remotes on the coffee table.

A favorite setup: stream the video source itself as the wallpaper. Your security camera feed, the YouTube video you're watching, your Plex library, your Home Assistant dashboard — whatever's on screen is also what you're controlling. Watch the show, control the show, on the same screen, with the same pointer. No looking down. No second remote.

Many paths, one outcome. The TV experience never replaces your phone or tablet — it joins them. Use the phone in your hand. Use the tablet on the coffee table. Use the TV from across the room. Use all three at the same time, all controlling the same gear. There's always more than one way to do anything in READYWARE — pick whichever feels right at the moment, switch to another whenever you want.

The Remote Web Viewer gives anyone a browser-based version of your remote — real wallpapers, real icons, real buttons — accessible from any phone, tablet, or computer anywhere on the planet. Here's the full setup:

This is bigger than it sounds. The Web Remote doesn't just work on phones. It works on everything with a browser — and it fires real IR and RF signals through the hardware on your home network in real time.

• 💻
  Windows PC or laptop — open the link in any browser. Click a button. IR fires across the room. No Android emulator. No driver. No install. Your Windows machine just became an IR and RF blaster.
• 🍎
  Mac — same. Safari, Chrome, Firefox, any of them.
• 📺
  Smart TV with a browser — open the link on your TV's built-in browser. Use the TV remote's pointer to click buttons. Your TV is now controlling your other devices.
• 🖥️
  Wall-mounted touchscreen — any screen with a browser becomes a dedicated room control panel. No app, no setup beyond the link.
• 🌍
  Anyone, anywhere — share the link with family. They open it on whatever device they have and control your home from across the house or across the world.

The IR and RF signals still fire through the hardware on your home network. READYWARE on your phone or tablet bridges the browser command to the blaster in real time. Sub-second response.

Add each device in Settings → Device Setup and give them clear names. Then assign any button to any device: long-press a button → Edit → IR/RF Code tab → IR Device. Pick the one you want. That button fires through that blaster. Everything else stays on the default device.

One button can fire multiple IR commands in sequence, change wallpapers, launch apps, and more. Edit any button → Macro tab. Add steps. Set delays between them. Perfect for "watch TV" sequences that turn on the TV, switch input, and dim the lights in one tap.

Settings → Advanced → Save Profile saves your entire setup as a .ircprofile file — every remote, every button, every signal, every wallpaper. Restore it on any device, share it with anyone. Your setup is yours forever.